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Friday, December 26, 2008

1997 RX-Z Restored!

1997 6-Speed RX-Z Restoration Project

Do you still remember the picture above? It is about a Yamaha RX-Z bike that I bought for RM500+ that I'm going to restore sometime in May 2008.
Now, the restoration has finished. Enjoy the picture below and look for the original look for the bike before any restoration has been done.

Newly painted engine cover but the kick starter has not been replaced yet since there is no stock for the original one

Carburetor is new since the old one is very dirty and hard to clean

The head now look better

New rims, tyre, hub, rear footrest but old exhaust painted to black

Definitely restored to full glory

Nicely done in black with green stripe

There is nothing more satisfying other than looking at the bike that once is hedious and teribble but now looking like new and full of spirit.
Remember to read the previous look of this bike here!

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Knowing Your 4-stroke Bike Engine Condition Through Exhaust Smoke

1. Colourless or slightly blue smoke from exhaust
This means that your bike is very good condition. What you can assume is your fuel/air mixture is at the right composition and everything is well burnt is your combustion chamber.

2. Yellow or brownish smoke from exhaust
Your fuel/air mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
Solution: Adjust the fuel/air mixture at your carburetor (or ECU) accordingly.

3. Black smoke from exhaust
Your fuel/air mixture is too rich. High fuel but low air intake. This will reduce your fuel efficiency since the black smoke is your unburnt fuel.
The problem might be at this part:
i. Your air filter is dirty or blocked from receiving air from surrounding.
ii.Your choke is closed
iii. Your carburetor is damaged
Solution:
i.Clean/replace air filter
ii.Open choke
iii.Repair/replace your carburetor.

4. White smoke from exhaust
This happen when your engine oil gets into the combustion chamber.
The problem might be at this part:
i. Piston ring is loose
ii. Piston is worn out
iii. Engine block is worn out/scratched
iv. Valve is worn out/damaged
v. Valve line is worn out/scratched
Solution:
i. Replace piston ring
ii. Rebore block and replace piston
iii. same with no. ii
iv. Replace valve
v. Rebore valve line and replace valve.
Sometimes white smoke can also occur in the morning or you start your bike after it is being left on the rain. The white smoke is the water vapour released from the condensation that happens inside your exhaust. Normally, this happens only for few minutes and then it will be back to colourless again. The difference from white water vapour smoke and white exhaust smoke is the smell. What I can say is, the smell from engine oil being burnt is your combustion chamber is bad and very busuk. Water vapour doesn't have any smell.
For more information, you can search in Google.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Fuel Injection Bikes That Didn't Make It to Malaysia

Honda Air Blade-i

Honda CBR-125i

Honda Click AT-i

Honda CZ-i 110

Yamaha Spark 135i

Suzuki Shogun 125 Fi

Honda Wave 125S PGM-Fi (the first cub to have Fi)

I hate to write about this post because it made me feel that we in Malaysia live in old time. People in Thailand got all the bike featured here, but none of them is available in Malaysia. Why? What is wrong with Fi bike in accordance with the rules and regulation here in Malaysia?
But, there is one thing that make me happy for using carburetor type cub bike, look at the Honda Wave specification below:

Specifications Honda Wave 125
* Engine type: SOHC 2-valve 4-stroke air-cooled 124cc engine
* Displacement: 124.9 cc
* Bore x Stroke: 52.4 x 57.9 mm
* Compression Ratio: 9,3:1
* Max Power: 9.3 PS @ 7,500 rpm (carburetor type),
9,18 PS @ 7.500 rpm(Fi)

* Max Torque: 1.03 kgf.m @ 4,000 rpm (carburetor type),
0,99 kgf.m /5.000 rpm(Fi)

* Max speed: 115 km/h
* Transmission: 4-speed
* Clutch: Wet multi-plate centrifugal
* Starter: Kick and electric starter
* Frame Type: Underbone steel tube
* Suspension (F): Telescopic
* Suspension (R): Swingarm
* Brake (F): Disc/Mechanically actuated drum
* Brake (R): Leading trailing drum/Disc
* Fuel tank capacity: 3.7 L

Read the one with bold font. As you can see the carburetor-type Honda Wave 125 is more powerful and torquey than Fi sibling. Also, the maintainance is low and easy to repair compared to Fi which used ECU. Still, we in Malaysia should have Fi bikes(we have one actually, that is Yamaha FZ-150i).
The special thing about Fi is about fuel efficiency. This is proven by the review of FZ-150i by Roda-Roda magazine in Malaysia September issue.
Self modification to fit your bike with Fi is actually possible but I think it is not worth the effort.
For more information, click here.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

New bike: Honda Wave 125X

Honda Wave 125X

Again, I can't resist the temptation given by this bike that makes me wanted to feature it in this blog. Honda Wave 125X is one of the new bike introduced in Malaysia this year along with Suzuki Shogun, Yamaha Lagenda 110ZR, Naza Prisma and Modenas Kriss 120.
I use Honda C70 long time ago when I was at university. It was a very reliable bike. You can drive it anywhere and the maintainance is very low. I remember at that time I used to fit the C70 with oversize carburetor that is RX-S carburetor for 115cc bike. The power and torque from it is very large but the piston and original block seem to be able to take all the pressure and stress.
Honda is reliable and reliability is Honda. Honda Wave 125X here also have the same spirit with other Honda Cub series being reliable and indestructible.
The styling of the Honda Wave 125X is good but nothing more than that compared to Yamaha LC135, Lagenda ZR and Suzuki Shogun 125SP. Everything that Honda have here is very basic and very traditional. You can see it still use double shock system, 125cc engine and rear drum brake.
The exhaust got a little bit of modification with the race-style muffler just like Suzuki Shogun or like the AHM exhaust.
For more information, click here.

Friday, December 12, 2008

New Bikes: Suzuki Shogun 125RR and 125SP

Suzuki Shogun 125 RR and Suzuki Shogun 125SP
(click to enlarge)

I know this post is a little bit late. I was thinking whether to include this bike or not on this blog because this blog is mostly about Yamaha cub bikes but I can't resist the temptation given by Shogun 125 SP by Suzuki.
When I was studying in secondary school, my father bought me a Suzuki Best 110. At that time, there were Yamaha SS 110 and RG Sports 110 as the contender to Best 110. So, I think it is also relevant to put it into this blog.
The wow element that I can find in this Shogun is on the installation of front and rear disc brake. Front and rear disc brake is very hard to find fitted on cub bikes. The bikes that I know have this kind of installation is Yamaha 125Z and Suzuki RGX 120 in Malaysia. In Thailand, it is a different story because they have a lot of cub bike fitted with front and rear disc brake like Honda Sonic, Honda Nova, Kawasaki Leostar, Yamaha X1R and many more.
The other good element in this Shogun is the availability of manual hand clutch which gives better acceleration and torque to the bike. The other bike that have manual hand clutch is Yamaha LC135ES only.
The sport rim is also my favourite because it features the Y-spoke. Y-spoke sport rims is used in many popular bike like Aprilia RS125 and Kawasaki Ninja ZX250R. Both which are also my favourite bike other than Yamaha.
The downside of this bike is the use of old style rear suspension which is still NOT monoshock. This make the overall looks of the bike look safe and nothing special. You can modified your LC135 to get front and rear disc brake, but it is much much harder to change the double shock system to monoshock system. One more thing is about the displacement(cc) of the Shogun. It is only 125cc where nowadays the buzzword is 135cc. I really think Suzuki need to do something about it.
For more information, head up to here.
Shogun 125 RR (Clutch auto) RM5,253.75
Shogun 125 SP (Clutch manual) RM5,400.25

Monday, December 8, 2008

Longest Yamaha RX-Z Parking I've Ever Seen!


This video is about a convoi which gathers only Yamaha RX-Z on the trip to Mersing Johor. I was amazed by how long the parked RX-Z lined up for the show.
Watch the video and see what I meant!

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Best Sprocket Size for Yamaha RX-Z: 16T-39T?

Yamaha RX-Z 135 16T Front Sprocket

Yamaha RX-Z 135 39T Rear Sprocket

Yamaha RX-Z 135 428 Chain

Standard Yamaha RX-Z from factory is fitted with 16T and 46T (if you are wondering what is the "T" behind the number, it is actually TEETH).
Currently, I'm using 16T-42T on my Yamaha RX-Z since I use it as my daily commuter to work. For now it is okay but, after I change my original exhaust to Yoshi Racing exhaust, I think I need to do something about it. This is because the new exhaust has released more power and torque than the original standard exhaust.
My next sprocket change is to 16T-39T as pictured above. I haven't installed this yet as I'm a little bit busy for now. This changes I think will not effect much on the performance since I only use it on short trip. Using smaller rear sprocket can give benefit for long distance traveling since it can give lower RPM at the same speed using standard sprocket. It can also give better fuel efficiency since it revs low.
You should also check for the material that is used to make the sprocket. As you can see in the picture, the rear sprocket is being made with High Carbon Steel(HCS). HCS is a lighter material than steel. Also HCS is better in terms of durability since it can withstand pressure and the friction from the drive chain. The best material for sprocket is made from the mixture of metals also known as alloy. Alloy is much tougher, lighter and eventually more expensive. The hardest material that is known to man is diamond, but I have never seen sprocket being made from diamond before.
Here is another information about sprocket material for industry application at http://www.daviesmarketing.com

"Sprocket Materials

Most standard sprockets are manufactured from steel. They can be made from many type of material, but the offerings from most manufacturers are based upon their own equipment limitations and the tooling available to cut the teeth.

Below is a listing of typical sprocket materials and their most frequent application environments.

Steel - Is considered the most typical construction material. It is available in different hardness levels (covered later) and is used in all types of applications.

Bronze - Is a metal used in non-magnetic applications where ‘no sparking’ is required. It can also withstand the abuse of some corrosive environments.

Brass - Is also a non-magnetic application material with the ability to stand up in a number of corrosive environments.

Stainless Steel - This is the most common material used for corrosive environments. It is widely applied throughout in the food processing industry and most manufacturers have types approved for direct food contact.

Titanium - Light weight and very strong, this metal is a silvery, dark grey colour and is designed for highly corrosive applications or direct chemical exposure such as in the electrical industry where printed circuit boards are cleaned.

Aluminium - Silvery, light weight metal that can resist corrosion but is restricted to light duty, light load applications. Typically used in belt and pulley applications (timing belts).

Nylon (Plastic) - As with roller chain, nylon is also used for anti-corrosive environments, as well as for quietness.

Nylon materials are also generally less expensive than metal. Nylon sprockets can be used in the food industry, as they hold up well in wash down situations. These plastic sprockets can be constructed from electro-conductive through heat resistant styles - similarly found in plastic chain."
What is the sprocket that you are using now? Let's share the knowledge!

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Carburetor Internal Diagram Label

Carburetor Repair Kit for RX-Z

This diagram is good for you to know what is the part that is needed to modify your carburetor. You can check how to tune carburetor here.
The most common part that is modified in carburetor is main jet and pilot jet only.

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