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Friday, December 26, 2008

1997 RX-Z Restored!

1997 6-Speed RX-Z Restoration Project

Do you still remember the picture above? It is about a Yamaha RX-Z bike that I bought for RM500+ that I'm going to restore sometime in May 2008.
Now, the restoration has finished. Enjoy the picture below and look for the original look for the bike before any restoration has been done.

Newly painted engine cover but the kick starter has not been replaced yet since there is no stock for the original one

Carburetor is new since the old one is very dirty and hard to clean

The head now look better

New rims, tyre, hub, rear footrest but old exhaust painted to black

Definitely restored to full glory

Nicely done in black with green stripe

There is nothing more satisfying other than looking at the bike that once is hedious and teribble but now looking like new and full of spirit.
Remember to read the previous look of this bike here!

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Knowing Your 4-stroke Bike Engine Condition Through Exhaust Smoke

1. Colourless or slightly blue smoke from exhaust
This means that your bike is very good condition. What you can assume is your fuel/air mixture is at the right composition and everything is well burnt is your combustion chamber.

2. Yellow or brownish smoke from exhaust
Your fuel/air mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
Solution: Adjust the fuel/air mixture at your carburetor (or ECU) accordingly.

3. Black smoke from exhaust
Your fuel/air mixture is too rich. High fuel but low air intake. This will reduce your fuel efficiency since the black smoke is your unburnt fuel.
The problem might be at this part:
i. Your air filter is dirty or blocked from receiving air from surrounding.
ii.Your choke is closed
iii. Your carburetor is damaged
Solution:
i.Clean/replace air filter
ii.Open choke
iii.Repair/replace your carburetor.

4. White smoke from exhaust
This happen when your engine oil gets into the combustion chamber.
The problem might be at this part:
i. Piston ring is loose
ii. Piston is worn out
iii. Engine block is worn out/scratched
iv. Valve is worn out/damaged
v. Valve line is worn out/scratched
Solution:
i. Replace piston ring
ii. Rebore block and replace piston
iii. same with no. ii
iv. Replace valve
v. Rebore valve line and replace valve.
Sometimes white smoke can also occur in the morning or you start your bike after it is being left on the rain. The white smoke is the water vapour released from the condensation that happens inside your exhaust. Normally, this happens only for few minutes and then it will be back to colourless again. The difference from white water vapour smoke and white exhaust smoke is the smell. What I can say is, the smell from engine oil being burnt is your combustion chamber is bad and very busuk. Water vapour doesn't have any smell.
For more information, you can search in Google.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Fuel Injection Bikes That Didn't Make It to Malaysia

Honda Air Blade-i

Honda CBR-125i

Honda Click AT-i

Honda CZ-i 110

Yamaha Spark 135i

Suzuki Shogun 125 Fi

Honda Wave 125S PGM-Fi (the first cub to have Fi)

I hate to write about this post because it made me feel that we in Malaysia live in old time. People in Thailand got all the bike featured here, but none of them is available in Malaysia. Why? What is wrong with Fi bike in accordance with the rules and regulation here in Malaysia?
But, there is one thing that make me happy for using carburetor type cub bike, look at the Honda Wave specification below:

Specifications Honda Wave 125
* Engine type: SOHC 2-valve 4-stroke air-cooled 124cc engine
* Displacement: 124.9 cc
* Bore x Stroke: 52.4 x 57.9 mm
* Compression Ratio: 9,3:1
* Max Power: 9.3 PS @ 7,500 rpm (carburetor type),
9,18 PS @ 7.500 rpm(Fi)

* Max Torque: 1.03 kgf.m @ 4,000 rpm (carburetor type),
0,99 kgf.m /5.000 rpm(Fi)

* Max speed: 115 km/h
* Transmission: 4-speed
* Clutch: Wet multi-plate centrifugal
* Starter: Kick and electric starter
* Frame Type: Underbone steel tube
* Suspension (F): Telescopic
* Suspension (R): Swingarm
* Brake (F): Disc/Mechanically actuated drum
* Brake (R): Leading trailing drum/Disc
* Fuel tank capacity: 3.7 L

Read the one with bold font. As you can see the carburetor-type Honda Wave 125 is more powerful and torquey than Fi sibling. Also, the maintainance is low and easy to repair compared to Fi which used ECU. Still, we in Malaysia should have Fi bikes(we have one actually, that is Yamaha FZ-150i).
The special thing about Fi is about fuel efficiency. This is proven by the review of FZ-150i by Roda-Roda magazine in Malaysia September issue.
Self modification to fit your bike with Fi is actually possible but I think it is not worth the effort.
For more information, click here.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

New bike: Honda Wave 125X

Honda Wave 125X

Again, I can't resist the temptation given by this bike that makes me wanted to feature it in this blog. Honda Wave 125X is one of the new bike introduced in Malaysia this year along with Suzuki Shogun, Yamaha Lagenda 110ZR, Naza Prisma and Modenas Kriss 120.
I use Honda C70 long time ago when I was at university. It was a very reliable bike. You can drive it anywhere and the maintainance is very low. I remember at that time I used to fit the C70 with oversize carburetor that is RX-S carburetor for 115cc bike. The power and torque from it is very large but the piston and original block seem to be able to take all the pressure and stress.
Honda is reliable and reliability is Honda. Honda Wave 125X here also have the same spirit with other Honda Cub series being reliable and indestructible.
The styling of the Honda Wave 125X is good but nothing more than that compared to Yamaha LC135, Lagenda ZR and Suzuki Shogun 125SP. Everything that Honda have here is very basic and very traditional. You can see it still use double shock system, 125cc engine and rear drum brake.
The exhaust got a little bit of modification with the race-style muffler just like Suzuki Shogun or like the AHM exhaust.
For more information, click here.

Friday, December 12, 2008

New Bikes: Suzuki Shogun 125RR and 125SP

Suzuki Shogun 125 RR and Suzuki Shogun 125SP
(click to enlarge)

I know this post is a little bit late. I was thinking whether to include this bike or not on this blog because this blog is mostly about Yamaha cub bikes but I can't resist the temptation given by Shogun 125 SP by Suzuki.
When I was studying in secondary school, my father bought me a Suzuki Best 110. At that time, there were Yamaha SS 110 and RG Sports 110 as the contender to Best 110. So, I think it is also relevant to put it into this blog.
The wow element that I can find in this Shogun is on the installation of front and rear disc brake. Front and rear disc brake is very hard to find fitted on cub bikes. The bikes that I know have this kind of installation is Yamaha 125Z and Suzuki RGX 120 in Malaysia. In Thailand, it is a different story because they have a lot of cub bike fitted with front and rear disc brake like Honda Sonic, Honda Nova, Kawasaki Leostar, Yamaha X1R and many more.
The other good element in this Shogun is the availability of manual hand clutch which gives better acceleration and torque to the bike. The other bike that have manual hand clutch is Yamaha LC135ES only.
The sport rim is also my favourite because it features the Y-spoke. Y-spoke sport rims is used in many popular bike like Aprilia RS125 and Kawasaki Ninja ZX250R. Both which are also my favourite bike other than Yamaha.
The downside of this bike is the use of old style rear suspension which is still NOT monoshock. This make the overall looks of the bike look safe and nothing special. You can modified your LC135 to get front and rear disc brake, but it is much much harder to change the double shock system to monoshock system. One more thing is about the displacement(cc) of the Shogun. It is only 125cc where nowadays the buzzword is 135cc. I really think Suzuki need to do something about it.
For more information, head up to here.
Shogun 125 RR (Clutch auto) RM5,253.75
Shogun 125 SP (Clutch manual) RM5,400.25

Monday, December 8, 2008

Longest Yamaha RX-Z Parking I've Ever Seen!


This video is about a convoi which gathers only Yamaha RX-Z on the trip to Mersing Johor. I was amazed by how long the parked RX-Z lined up for the show.
Watch the video and see what I meant!

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Best Sprocket Size for Yamaha RX-Z: 16T-39T?

Yamaha RX-Z 135 16T Front Sprocket

Yamaha RX-Z 135 39T Rear Sprocket

Yamaha RX-Z 135 428 Chain

Standard Yamaha RX-Z from factory is fitted with 16T and 46T (if you are wondering what is the "T" behind the number, it is actually TEETH).
Currently, I'm using 16T-42T on my Yamaha RX-Z since I use it as my daily commuter to work. For now it is okay but, after I change my original exhaust to Yoshi Racing exhaust, I think I need to do something about it. This is because the new exhaust has released more power and torque than the original standard exhaust.
My next sprocket change is to 16T-39T as pictured above. I haven't installed this yet as I'm a little bit busy for now. This changes I think will not effect much on the performance since I only use it on short trip. Using smaller rear sprocket can give benefit for long distance traveling since it can give lower RPM at the same speed using standard sprocket. It can also give better fuel efficiency since it revs low.
You should also check for the material that is used to make the sprocket. As you can see in the picture, the rear sprocket is being made with High Carbon Steel(HCS). HCS is a lighter material than steel. Also HCS is better in terms of durability since it can withstand pressure and the friction from the drive chain. The best material for sprocket is made from the mixture of metals also known as alloy. Alloy is much tougher, lighter and eventually more expensive. The hardest material that is known to man is diamond, but I have never seen sprocket being made from diamond before.
Here is another information about sprocket material for industry application at http://www.daviesmarketing.com

"Sprocket Materials

Most standard sprockets are manufactured from steel. They can be made from many type of material, but the offerings from most manufacturers are based upon their own equipment limitations and the tooling available to cut the teeth.

Below is a listing of typical sprocket materials and their most frequent application environments.

Steel - Is considered the most typical construction material. It is available in different hardness levels (covered later) and is used in all types of applications.

Bronze - Is a metal used in non-magnetic applications where ‘no sparking’ is required. It can also withstand the abuse of some corrosive environments.

Brass - Is also a non-magnetic application material with the ability to stand up in a number of corrosive environments.

Stainless Steel - This is the most common material used for corrosive environments. It is widely applied throughout in the food processing industry and most manufacturers have types approved for direct food contact.

Titanium - Light weight and very strong, this metal is a silvery, dark grey colour and is designed for highly corrosive applications or direct chemical exposure such as in the electrical industry where printed circuit boards are cleaned.

Aluminium - Silvery, light weight metal that can resist corrosion but is restricted to light duty, light load applications. Typically used in belt and pulley applications (timing belts).

Nylon (Plastic) - As with roller chain, nylon is also used for anti-corrosive environments, as well as for quietness.

Nylon materials are also generally less expensive than metal. Nylon sprockets can be used in the food industry, as they hold up well in wash down situations. These plastic sprockets can be constructed from electro-conductive through heat resistant styles - similarly found in plastic chain."
What is the sprocket that you are using now? Let's share the knowledge!

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Carburetor Internal Diagram Label

Carburetor Repair Kit for RX-Z

This diagram is good for you to know what is the part that is needed to modify your carburetor. You can check how to tune carburetor here.
The most common part that is modified in carburetor is main jet and pilot jet only.

Friday, November 28, 2008

Best Yamaha Modification from http://motorcycle-thai.blogspot.com

Yamaha Spark 135 Racing

Yamaha Nouvo Elegance Extreme Modifies

Yamaha Spark 135 Extreme Modification

Yamaha Spark 135 - Indonesia Modification

Thai biker also have their enthusiast who likes to blog. Here I have found one that is still up and running blog that has just been updated today. You can surf it up here.
The modification here is very nice and fresh. It can give a lot of idea for us to do it on our bikes here in Malaysia.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Inside Yamaha Nuovo Elegance / Nuovo LC

Magneto configuration

Piston

Piston, bearing and crankshaft

Cylinder head and valve

Cylinder block

Yamaha Nuovo LC in Malaysia is also known as Nuovo Elegance in Thailand. Thais get their Elegance long before we got it here in Malaysia that is on February 2008 (we got in August). At first I thought the engine configuration is the same with Yamaha LC135, but it is not. It can be seen with the 2-valve system for Nuovo LC, where there is 4-valve system for LC135.
There is a lot more picture can be seen here.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Yamaha Vega-R DB from Indonesia: New Lagenda for Malaysia?

Yamaha Vega-R DB

Yamaha Jupiter Z or Yamaha Lagenda in Malaysia

I have stumble upon these images when I browse to official Yamaha Motor Indonesia website. At first, I thought Yamaha Vega-R DB is Yamaha Jupiter Z/Lagenda, but it isn't.
So, I compare the Yamaha Vega-R DB with Yamaha Jupiter Z specification and found out that it share the same cylinder size (cc), same body and same suspension setup. I'm guessing this Yamaha Vega-R DB is the another facelift (or bodylift?) version of Yamaha Jupiter Z. Here in Malaysia, we already have Yamaha Lagenda, Yamaha Lagenda Z and the latest version of it that is Yamaha Lagenda ZR.
The differences between Yamaha Vega-R DB and Yamaha Jupiter Z can be seen on the front head lamp and new fairing design.
If my guess is correct, then we'll have new version of Yamaha Lagenda in the next few months.
Official Yamaha Motor Indonesia can be accessed here.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Yamaha Sniper/Sniper HC(Hand Clutch) Philippines Website

Yamaha Motor Phillippines Website for Sniper

It is good for us to know about the other version of Yamaha LC135 since it can give us a lot of ideas for our next modification.
Philippines got the Yamaha Sniper for automatic clutch and Yamaha Sniper HC for manual hand clutch.
The information given here is not very detailed as compared to yamahat135.com which is the official website from Yamaha specifically for Yamaha LC135.
What I like about this website is that we can look for the different design of the sticker and stripe of the Yamaha Sniper. Maybe we can buy the sticker from Philippines for simple and easy coverset mod.
Get yourself there by clicking on the picture.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Use Reverse Osmosis Water to Clean Your Bike for Spotless Clarity

Reverse Osmosis Water Filter System from Apec Water

Reverse osmosis water as we know does not contain anything inside it except H2O only. H2O is a volatile compound means that it can vapourise well at any temperature above its boiling point. This property of volatility makes it dry when wash our car. But if we are using normal tap water, we can see spot and streak on our car after the water have dried out. The spot and streak are actually minerals and contaminant that is normally existed in the normal tap water such as calcium, magnesium, silica, iron etc.
So, using reverse osmosis water to clean our car and bike really make sense since it does not contain anything else other than H2O only.
Perfect clean car, spotless and streak-free surface is also good for waxing and polishing since it does not contain any metals from the water to make the paint surface to be scratched.
In fact, reverse osmosis water is used in luxury auto detailing company since they are looking for nothing other perfection.
If you have reverse osmosis water filter and like to have perfect clarity spotless clean bike, this is the time to use it!

X1R: The Another Version of Yamaha LC135

Yamaha X1R Thailand Black


Yamaha X1R Thailand Blue

Yamaha X1R Thailand Yellow Showroom Bike

Yamaha X1R Front Head Lamp

Yamaha X1R Rear Lamp

Yamaha X1R Thailand version of Yamaha LC135 is a very special model. It has front and rear brake disc whereby most of the other version only has front disc brake such as Yamaha Sniper (Bermuda) and T135(Europe).
The design of the bike is also very different when compared all of the other version of the LC135. It look much more naked, meaner and more manly. The rear lamp is designed well to suit the overall radical look presented by the absence of front head lamp on the head cover. The front head lamp is being replaced to lower position that is on the fairing. This remind me the look of new Nuovo that is Nuovo LC. It is good design and I think a lot of Yamaha LC135 like to have their bike to resemble this look.
Yamaha X1R also have another version in Thailand that is Yamaha Spark 135i, and as the name suggest it is being equipped with fuel injection.
For those who are looking to convert their bike to resemble X1R, read the post here.
For Yamaha LC135 Rear Brake Disc Conversion, read it here.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

MotoMalaya Photo Gallery is Open for Your Yamaha Bikes Pictures!

MotoMalaya Photo Gallery at motomalaya.com

I have a lot of request of readers asking me to setup a page so that they can upload their Yamaha bikes picture. Well, your requests has been granted! I have setup NEW PHOTO GALLERY website with NEW domain name.

So, head up straight to http://motomalaya.com

Register yourself there and upload your RX-Z, 125Z, Lagenda, LC135 or FZ-150i pictures(s).

It is still quite empty there since it is just opened, you just might be one of the earliest MotoMalayan to be the family of motomalaya.com new website.

UPDATE: Photo Gallery is CLOSED!

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

BRT Tune-Up Racing CDI Dual Band Unit for Yamaha LC 135

BRT Tune-Up Racing CDI Dual Band Unit for Yamaha LC 135

Bintang Racing Team Tune-Up Racing CDI Unit


This CDI unit is a dual band version where you can have to setting, whether to have normal or tuned-up riding style.

The price is at RM480

Version of BRT Racing CDI Unit

There are three version of BRT CDI unit that is Standard Tune-Up(ST), Tune-Up Racing(TU) and Racing Kompetisi(RK). The most CDI unit used by most Yamaha LC135 is the TU version. This because it has the fan control, thus can give better cooling to the engine. RK is not recommended even though it has advantage of 16-programmable point of TDC because this one is used mainly only for real purpose racing in track. And you should also know that this CDI unit cost more than RM600.

The fan control connector is on the right side of the green wire.

If you want to know what is CDI, read my previous post here. Remember, CDI unit is the last thing you need to do after you have modified your bike namely the carburetor, block, piston etc.

This item are available for sale here: http://motomalaya.net/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=44

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Yamaha LC 135 Racing Engine Block 58.5mm

Yamaha LC 135 Racing Engine Block 58.5mm
(Click to enlarge)

Racing engine block is an oversize diameter of the piston and must be able to contain extreme heat and pressure inside it. This racing engine block for Yamaha LC135/Sniper/X1R is made from Taiwan. The durability of if is known and able to sustain long distance and endurance from the biker.
This racing engine block kit consist of engine block, piston, piston ring and piston pin.
There are two sizes available for the engine block that is 58.5mm and 60.0mm. The standard size of the Yamaha LC135 engine block is 54mm.
Oversize block gives more fuel to burn inside the combustion chamber, thus giving more power. Also, heat is generate more than standard condition with standard engine block. This one doesn't give any problem to the LC135 since it is liquid cooled.
Tuning of carburetor is also essential when you change the engine block. What is needed to be tuned is the main jet and pilot jet only. Standard main jet for Yamaha LC135 is 105 and pilot jet 20.0. So, what you need to do is to change that main jet and pilot jet to a bigger size. Main jet upgrade size is available in 110, 115, 120 and 125. Changing to the maximum size is not always the best idea. Try 110 first, then upgrade to larger size until you get a good speed all around and smooth running engine. If not, your carb is going to be too rich or too lean with fuel. Pilot jet upgrade comes in size 22.5 and 25.0. Also, try the small one first until you get the best mix. Tuning carb is essential to get the most efficient fuel delivery to the engine block combustion chamber.
After that, you also need to change your exhaust to high performance exhaust to get a better airflow of the exhaust gas. AHM, YY Pang etc is a good exhaust to choose from.
Thanks for reading and happy tuning!
Piston is included
(Click to enlarge)

Y1-2, that's what written on the side wall
(Click to enlarge)

135 5YP, the same wording as the standard block. So, the RTD won't know you are using racing engine block.
(Click to enlarge)

Bottom view
(Click to enlarge)

Side view
(Click to enlarge)

58.5mm piston ring size
(Click to enlarge)

More view
(Click to enlarge)

Attention!

We have moved to http://motomalaya.net/